The Tools
We cannot predict what tools you’ll have available during the building of your machine. We can, however, tell you the tools we used. Some of these tools, especially the power tools, can easily be rented (by the day or hour) at hardware stores and home centers, while others may be slightly difficult to find. And if you have access to a tool or two not mentioned here, that could make your work even easier. Just keep in mind,
however, that this machine was designed so that it could be built with a minimum number of tools—if you find yourself lacking a tool described following and cannot find it (for purchase or rent), don’t let that stop you; just improvise with the tools you do have. The CNC machine built in this book is extremely forgiving when it comes to small deviations in cutting and drilling; be as accurate as you can, use what you have available, and make the best of it.
Following is a list of our tools, with a few photos for clarification:
• Table saw: This is useful for cutting long lengths of MDF accurately. Depending on your skill, you
can also cut multiple MDF pieces at once, guaranteeing they match in dimensions.
can also cut multiple MDF pieces at once, guaranteeing they match in dimensions.
• Metal band saw: This is used for cutting the aluminum angled rail and lead screws.
• Hack saw: If a band saw is not available, this is the saw to use for cutting the aluminum angled
rail and lead screws
rail and lead screws
• Mitre box: This is useful for making accurate cuts in small MDF pieces.
• Hammer: This is for hammering things, obviously.
• Cordless screwdrivers: You’ll need a Phillips and a slot head.
• Regular screwdrivers: Again, you’ll need a Phillips and a slot head.
• Forstner drill bits: Forstner bits (see Figure 2-1) are extremely useful for counterboring as well as
drilling large, smooth holes; regular drill bits can be used to drill counterbored holes, but these
work much better.
drilling large, smooth holes; regular drill bits can be used to drill counterbored holes, but these
work much better.
“dimple” that can be used to center other drill bits for later drilling.
• Twisted drill bits: These are your standard drill bits and come in a range of sizes.
• Spade drill bits: This is another common variety of drill bit that is perfectly acceptable for drilling
holes.
• Transfer punches: Transfer punches (see Figure 2-2) are available in different diameters. These
tools have a sharp point on the end; inserting them into existing drilled holes will allow you to
make a “dimple” in a second piece of MDF, giving you an accurate point to drill on the second
piece of MDF.
Figure 2-2. Transfer punches let you mark other pieces accurately for drilling.
• Magnetic bowl: This is a small bowl that can keep your nuts and bolts from falling all over the
floor.
• 1/2" power drill: Having a drill that can handle larger-diameter drill bits will be very useful during
the build.
• Drill press: Useful for drilling straight holes (vertically) through material. A drill press also
provides a small table to clamp MDF and aluminum rail to when drilling.
• Wrenches: You’ll need wrenches for 1/4" nuts.
• Detail metal ruler: This is a special type of ruler (see Figure 2-3) with marks that allow you to
make extremely straight lines for cutting and points for drilling. Measuring and marking
increments of 1/8", 1/16", 1/32", and 1/64" are possible with these rulers.
Figure 2-3. These rulers are from Incra and are extremely accurate.
• Tape measure: This tool is highly recommended as you’ll be doing a lot of measuring in this
project.
• Metal square: A 90 degree square will come in handy for ensuring that parts are joined properly.
• Tapping bit and holder: A tapping bit (see Figure 2-4) is used to cut thread into the aluminum
angled rail so a bolt can be screwed in.
Figure 2-5. A chamfer bit will let you cut a 45 degree surface on the MDF.
• Countersink bits: These are used on the CNC machine’s tabletop so the tapered head bolts won’t
stick out above the surface.
• Metal file: This is used to smooth rough metal cuts such as the rails cut from aluminum.
• Sanding block: This is used to defeather MDF and remove rough edges.
• Soldering gun: You can use wire nuts (various sizes) to connect two pieces of wire, but soldering
is still the best way to make a strong, reliable connection between two pieces. The wire used in
this project (18 gauge) may be too thin/delicate for a wire nut to be reliable.
• Solder: Along with a soldering gun, you’ll need plenty of solder during the electronics assembly
phase of the project.
• Wire cutter and stripper: Most of the wire you’ll use during the electronics assembly will need to
have the outer sheath removed (stripped) and cut to specific lengths.
• Third-hand clamp: This is useful for holding wire while you solder—a third-hand clamp typically
has a heavy base (see Figure 2-6), at least two alligator clips, and often a magnifying glass.
Figure 2-6. A third-hand clamp is very useful when soldering.
• Multimeter: You’ll use this tool to verify the voltage and amperage of some of the electronic
devices used during the electronics assembly phase.
• This is our recommended list of tools, but it’s certainly not exhaustive. There are likely tools you
have (or have access to) that can make building your CNC machine that much easier.